2020 Skincare Trends
Bakuchiol instead of Retinol
What it does: This multi-tasking plant-derived ingredient reduces fine lines and wrinkles, firms skin, improves skin tone, minimizes pore size, lightens discolorations, safe for sensitive skin.
What to look for: Although natural ingredient bakuchiol is often recommended as an alternative to retinol, unless you’re sensitive to retinol, there’s no reason these two powerful ingredients can’t be used together. The key is to find a product that contains at least 0.5% bakuchiol so you can take full advantage of this up-and-coming ingredient.
One more tip: Contrary to claims, bakuchiol can be sensitizing for some people as their skin adapts (bakuchiol is generally tolerated better but this doesn’t mean no one will be sensitive to it). Look for a bakuchiol product formulated without fragrance, including natural fragrant oils or extracts.
Try: The Inkey List Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Moisturizer ($9.99 for 1 ounce)
Not only is this the least expensive bakuchiol product, it’s also the only one I’ve found that’s fragrance free.
Antioxidant Enzymes for DNA Repair of sun-damaged skin
What they do: Visibly repair DNA damage to skin before it results in signs of aging; helps protect DNA in skin from environmental damage. Boosts skin’s content of naturally-occurring enzymes, which becomes faulty with age and accumulated UV and blue light damage.
What to Look for:
The ingredients that will get the most attention in this area are superoxide dismutase, glutathione (known as the body’s “master antioxidant”), catalase, alpha lipoic acid, and supporting ingredients like the mineral selenium and amino acids like glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid. All of these intercept damaging molecules before they can enter the skin cell’s nucleus and “reprogram” or disable the normal, healthy functioning of its DNA. Left unchecked, this DNA damage consistently sends faulty messages that lead to the gradual breakdown (and visible aging) of skin. And the research shows these ingredients also help repair some amount of past damage!
Try: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($39 for 1 ounce); NIOD Survival 0 ($25 for 1 ounce)
Products to Address the Needs of Estrogen-Deficient Skin
What they do: Helps menopausal skin regain its youthful resilience and suppleness; prevent skin thinning, reduces vascular changes to skin (think broken capillaries), reduces symptoms of hot flashes; helps improve sleep; replaces skin’s natural estrogen; helps reverse the effects of estrogen loss.
What to Look for:
Phytoestrogens. These safe ingredients (unlike estrogen patches from your doctor, phytoestrogens do not enter the body via skin) can mimic the positive effects estrogen has on women’s skin. They send signals to skin’s lower layers so skin thinks it has enough estrogen. Look for ingredients like soy isoflavones, genistein, daidzein, equol, black cohosh, lentils, flax seed. Phytoestrogens remain localized in skin, helping to counteract many of the visible effects that women see as their estrogen levels decline.
Try: VENeffect Firming Phyto-Lift Serum ($195 for 1 ounce)*
*As this is a trend, I expect we will see more such products—at lower price points—launching later this year.0